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When you’re out running around on a crazy busy day and you find yourself suddenly famished and needing to eat right now, there just aren’t many good options, especially if you’re trying to avoid meat and processed foods.

Like many people, Subway has turned into my go-to in such situations, and I’m exactly the kind of customer they’re trying to attract by marketing themselves as a fresh and healthy fast-food alternative. (I usually get a foot-long Veggie Delight with everything but jalapenos — extra black olives, please!)

But the largest restaurant chain in the world and America’s top fast food chain eight years running has a dirty little secret – actually several of them, it turns out.

I ran across an article last week announcing that Subway is responding to public pressure and removing a chemical called azodicarbonamide from all of its breads because of a customer-driven protest.

According to the Center for Science in the Public Interest, commercial bakers add azodicarbonamide to bread as a dough conditioner to make it have a nice, chewy texture. The plastic-based industrial chemical is also widely used in things like yoga mats and shoe soles to give them more elasticity. Seriously.

That sounds wrong just on general principle, but it is actually much worse than that: when ingested, azodicarbonamide breaks down into other substances, such as urethane, a known carcinogen, and semicarbazide, which causes lung and blood vessel cancers in mice.

Besides widespread use in bread and buns in fast-food chains, grocery store breads and restaurant breads also contain this nasty stuff, which aside from being carcinogenic has been linked to respiratory issues, allergies and asthma by the World Health Organization.

How does that nice, soft bread taste now, huh?

One of the biggest clues that this chemical should not be in the American food supply is that azodicarbonamide is banned as a food additive in the U.K, European Union, Australia, and Singapore, where you can get 15 years in prison and a $450,000 fine for using it in food.

Subway doesn’t put azodicarbonamide in its bread sold in those countries, so why should it do so here? Indeed, why should anybody? And why does the FDA even allow it?

This issue all came to a head for Subway earlier this month when food blogger Vani Hari, over at FoodBabe.com, launched a petition urging Subway to stop using azodicarbonamide. Nearly 90,000 people have now signed it, and Subway immediately sat up and took notice.

As well it should: Hari was the driving force behind the recent removal of artificial yellow dyes in at least three Kraft Mac and Cheese products and for Chick-fil-A removing controversial chemical ingredients from its menu, so she is a well-watched touchstone of consumer food activism with a formidable following.

Hari’s petition pressured Subway to make the change on azodicarbonamide, and I really hope she targets the FDA next on this issue. But the bad bread is only part of what she learned about Subway’s ingredients after researching the chain’s food supply since 2012.

She also found chemical additives, nitrates, GMOs, and refined sugars and flours in Subway’s products. And not only are all the veggies commercially grown and non-organic, she discovered that preservatives and artificial colors are added to some of them, such as banana peppers and pickles. Some of the salad dressings contain artificial colors, preservatives, and chemical additives as well.

Not even my extra black olives are safe.

“The ingredients for the black olives unveiled a new additive I learned about,” she wrote on her blog. “Ferrous gluconate, which is an iron-based preservative that helps keep olives black.”

And this, we are all assured, is how to Eat Fresh.

“What really upset me was it was something I always ate while on the road that I thought was healthy — their nine-grain bread and veggie sub and all the marketing about low calories and weight loss,” Hari told ABC News in early February.

“And they have an American Heart Association logo and stamp on their sandwiches,” she said. “I really had the illusion of healthy eating. When I saw what was actually in the bread, I was horrified.”

As we all should be, for oh so many reasons. But even with all of this news, Subway is still by far the healthiest choice of all the fast-food pressed on the American public. Now that, is truly horrifying.

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I’m not much of a picky eater. When it comes to food, I’m a pretty reliable opportunist, and there’s not much that I won’t eat. That said, we all do have our preferences. I can count the foods I dislike on one hand, and there are only two things that I absolutely won’t touch: blue veined cheeses of any sort, and tiny little oily fishes, such as anchovies or sardines.

Both of those dislikes can be attributed to the foods having very strong odors and flavors, and as far as vegetables go, I generally stay away from Brussels sprouts, eggplant, and okra – the first because of its flavor, the others because of their texture.

I know that everybody’s palates change over time, though, as we encounter new foods and flavors, so I always try to give foods I don’t care for a second (or 32nd) chance when they cross my path. Whenever there are Brussels sprouts, eggplant or okra around, I dutifully try them, even if I don’t have a whole serving myself.

That’s how I discovered that my dislikes are highly dependent on the context. For example, okra in soup is disgusting on general principle, but it turns out that fried okra battered in cornmeal is phenomenal. Brussels sprouts are too strong for me by themselves, but dress them up with garlic and butter in a casserole and they are rather more than tolerable.

I consider myself something of a foodie, so eggplant is an especially unfortunate thing to dislike, especially when trying to eat vegetarian. Ever notice that when you try to avoid something, it suddenly seems like it’s everywhere?

But what’s not to like about eggplant? They are sleek and shiny and beautiful and maybe even kind of sexy, but there’s just something about the spongy texture (or the slimy texture, depending on how it’s cooked) that I can’t abide.

Friends have tried to woo me with barbecued eggplant, eggplant lasagna, eggplant parmesan, and homemade baba ganoush, all to no avail. Bites of “amazing” eggplant this or that have been forced upon me in restaurants both Asian and Italian. In my own kitchen, I have tried pressing it, salting it, and soaking it, but — well, it’s still eggplant.

I want to like eggplant though, I truly do. It’s such a popular and versatile recipe ingredient and it’s also really good for you (very high in antioxidants, fiber and B vitamins). So when an eggplant arrived in my Golden Gate Organics box recently, I didn’t sub it out and instead I tried to find a way to enjoy it.

Since I had a few potatoes that were starting to sprout, and I needed to use them up, I went online and looked for recipes that included both potatoes and eggplant. There were dozens to choose from, and I settled on one for garlic mashed potatoes with eggplant from allrecipes.com.

It was a pretty basic dish, mashing together boiled potatoes and oven-roasted eggplant and garlic and then topping the mash with sautéed onions. It was fantastic, and I would definitely make it again. I might even go out of my way and deliberately buy an eggplant to do it.

I’m pretty sure that my eggplant mashed potatoes are the gateway drug for me to learn to enjoy this beautiful vegetable in its many other incarnations. Blue vein cheeses and tiny little oily fishes, though, are another matter entirely. There is simply not enough context in the world for that.

Posted by & filed under Food Philosophy, organic produce, produce report, tips & tricks.

kale 1

I went out for lunch with my folks today, and my dad ordered a raw kale salad with pomegranate seeds, apple and feta. Just a few nights ago, a friend served me kale that she marinated for an hour in lemon juice and olive oil.  A couple weeks back, I got to be the guinea pig taste-tester for my neighbor’s homemade dried kale chips. And at my house, I fire up the blender a couple times a week to make green power smoothies that typically include the stuff.

It seems like kale is suddenly everywhere.  The question, though, is not why kale is so popular all of a sudden; it’s why it hasn’t been popular all along.  Kale is a veritable powerhouse of vitamins, minerals and disease fighting antioxidants, and per calorie, it has more iron than beef and more calcium than milk. It’s also a good source of minerals like potassium, iron, copper, manganese and phosphorous. Here’s what you get from just one cup:

* 36 calories and zero fat

* 15% of your daily requirement of calcium and Vitamin B6

* 40% of magnesium

* 180% of Vitamin A

* 200% of Vitamin C

* 1,020% of Vitamin K

* 5 grams of fiber

Some people automatically turn their noses up at kale because they assume it will taste bitter, but washing, marinating, cooking and using younger leaves can all reduce that tendency.  The age of kale makes a big difference to the flavor, too;  older, paler and more flaccid leaves will be more bitter and unpleasant than firm, darker ones.

Preparation can make a big difference as well. Removing the stems and spines and using just the leafy parts solves the problem for many people. And marinating chopped kale in a little oil and lemon juice will go a long way toward mellowing its flavor.

There are several different types of kale, each with their own unique personalities – and I know the Golden Gate Organics boxes have recently featured at least two of them  (curly and Lacinato pictured above). All are members of the Brassica family, non-heading cabbages whose relatives include wild cabbage, collard greens, broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts.

Curly Kale is what most people think of when they think of kale, and that’s probably because it is the most commonly available in supermarkets. Bright green in color, curly kale has tightly ruffled, frilly leaves and fibrous stalks, which soften somewhat when cooked. Some people think curly kale has a peppery or bitter taste, so seek out younger looking leaves if you want more mellow flavor. Curly kale is the best kind to use for making kale chips (see recipe below), and you can also chop it into salads or steam it with a little olive oil and garlic.

Lacinato Kale, also known as Dinosaur kale, has dark blue-green leaves with a wrinkled and firm texture that could almost be described as leathery. Dino kale leaves are long and narrow, and they retain their firm texture even after they have been cooked. Lacinato kale has a somewhat sweeter and more delicate taste than the curly variety, and some people describe it as almost nutty. You can eat the stems as well as the leaves, either raw or cooked. Lacinato kale’s long association with Italian cooking (it’s a staple ingredient of minestrone),  has also given it the aliases Tuscan Cabbage, Italian Kale and Black Tuscan Palm.

Red Russian Kale has flat, scalloped leaves that are shaped something like large arugula leaves or the outer leaves of a cabbage. The leaves and stems can have a red or purple tinge, which is a good thing to know because although Red Russian is one of the sweetest kales, it has very woody stems that are hard to eat and can cause an upset stomach. Be sure to remove them before cooking. The leaves are more tender than frilly varieties and are excellent raw in salads as well as cooked.

Redbor Kale is a hybrid kale that has frilly, blue-green leaves with red veins and stems. In the cold weather, the leaves get a dark red or purple tinge that makes Redbor the most attractive of the kale varieties. It is often used as an ornamental plant, but it is great to eat and also looks nice when used as edible plate decoration.

Several other types of kale are primarily used as landscaping ornamentals, but they are actually edible, too, and their mellow flavors, tender textures and wonderful colors are a great addition to coleslaws or salad mixes. Don’t eat ornamental kale, though, unless you grow it yourself and know it to be organic, as young  ornamental plants are typically heavily sprayed by commercial nurseries.

One of the most popular ways to eat kale these days is as dried kale chips, and health food and specialty stores are charging an arm and a leg for tiny bags of these addictive but healthy snacks. There is really no good reason for  it – aside from consumer exploitation, of course.  Fresh kale is inexpensive and it is super easy to make your own kale chips.  Here’s a very basic recipe that can be customized to your liking by changing up the spices:

Homemade Kale Chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees  and line a non-insulated cookie sheet with parchment paper

Remove stems and spines and tear kale leaves into bite size pieces

Wash and thoroughly dry kale with a salad spinner and/or pat dry with a paper towel

Drizzle kale with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and/or other seasoning

Bake until the edges brown but are not burnt, 10 to 15 minutes

You can experiment with various flavorings, such as taco seasoning or other spice blends, brewer’s yeast, chili powder, garlic powder, or whatever you like.

Enjoy!

 

 

Posted by & filed under Education, Food Philosophy.

Hello everybody. It’s been a little while since we had a new blog post, and I hope you have all enjoyed the holiday break as much as we did. It’s the New Year now, and it seems like everywhere you turn people are talking about their resolutions and what kinds of changes they want to make in their lives. Corey’s email last week about eating less meat talked about some really good reasons why that is a fantastic resolution to make for the new year. Deciding not to eat meat for personal reasons, like health or moral objections to industrial animal farming, are really excellent individual motivations for sticking to such a goal, but it got me thinking about one of the best reasons of all, one that affects each and every one of us: global sustainability.

Most folks have probably heard that livestock contributes a significant amount of methane to the planet’s greenhouse gas problem, but that is just of the tip of the environmental iceberg when it comes to meat production. One of the other huge impacts is water consumption, which is hidden or “embedded” in the meat via the massive amount of grain animals eat, so we never realize how much of this precious resource we are actually consuming.
For example, it takes 2,000 gallons of water to produce just one pound of beef; one pound of pork takes 576 gallons, and a pound of chicken takes about 470 gallons of water. Meanwhile, a single pound of wheat for direct human consumption needs only 25 gallons of water. Some 40 percent of all the fresh water in the United States currently goes to irrigate feed crops for livestock for our meat-heavy Western diet.

According to the website TheTruthAboutWater.com, “the water it takes to produce the average American diet alone—approximately 1,000 gallons per person per day—is more than the global average water footprint of 900 gallons per person per day for diet, household use, transportation, energy, and the consumption of material goods.”

In this context, letting yellow mellow or turning off the water when you brush your teeth is less than a drop in the proverbial conservation bucket. This is a truly unsustainable situation for the global population over the long-term, and eating less (or no) meat to significantly reduce our water consumption is an excellent example of how our individual, personal choices can reach beyond our own lives to have a positive impact on the whole planet.

This issue was brought into focus for me by a MOOC (massive open online course) that I took this past year through the web education company called Coursera. Taught by Professor Jonathan Tomkin at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champagne, the (free!) 8-week class titled, “Introduction to Sustainability,” covered a lot of ground. It was an in-depth look at various factors that contribute to a sustainable future for our planet – or the lack thereof.

We studied everything from population demographics and Malthusian theories, to earth systems that regulate planetary temperature, to the science of climate change, to the politics and policy around ecosystem stewardship, energy use, pollution and agriculture, and finally the wide-ranging implications of how humans use the planet’s resources: air, water, soil, fossil fuels, and renewable energy sources. One especially valuable topic was the so-called “Tragedy of the Commons,” a paradigm for understanding how humans (mis)manage vital communal resources that we all depend on, such as ocean fisheries or the Earth’s atmosphere.

The course was surprisingly challenging and indeed I have been physically present for actual university courses that were much less of a commitment; all told, I invested about 10-12 hours a week watching video lectures, doing course readings, completing quizzes and writing peer-graded essays. But the best part of a MOOC is that you can participate at whatever level you want without any negative consequences. In that way, it can be a lot like auditing a university course, but the caveat is that you can only get as much out of it as you put into it.

More than 18,000 people worldwide participated in the sustainability class that I took, while about 5,000 of us received certificates of completion for fulfilling all of the formal course requirements. In the discussion forums, I interacted with people from all around the world, from Northern Ireland, to Tel Aviv to Tennessee, and it was incredibly heartening to see so many people from so many different backgrounds care enough about our global future to take their time to consider such complex issues.

I can’t recommend the class highly enough to anyone who wants to learn more about the prospects for our planet’s future. There is a new section of the course starting January 20; just go to coursera.org and sign up for free.
May your personal choices this year be of benefit to all.

Posted by & filed under FAQ, Food Philosophy.

Golden Gate Organics is different than the traditional CSA model. Some CSA’s only deliver fruits and veggies that they grow themselves. Under this model variety may be severely limited at times. Additionally, with some CSA’s you get stuck with whatever you get in the box and have no choice over what you will be receiving. Other CSA’s will offer items mostly from their farm but will also include items from other farms as well, sometimes out of the area or region in order to add greater variety. Some CSA’s advertise that, some do not and mislead their customers.

GGO is a new breed of CSA which Wayne and I thought up and founded ourselves which would remedy what we saw were the shortcomings of those models. Since we do not have our own farm we are free to work with farmers from all over the West Coast, Mexico, and in the case of the bananas this week, Peru, and Pineapples from Coast Rica. I do make every effort to ensure transparency with where your food is coming from so you may make an educated decision on what you would like to receive. When you log into your account you will often see country codes next to the display names of the items which indicate which country it came from. If there is no country code then it is from California. I even have a farm page that has taken me much time to put together and list the farms where your items are purchased from. It is by no means perfect but I can say that it is much more information than my competitors offer their customers. Here is the link: https://www.goldengateorganics.com/produce-from-organic-farms and it is updated each week when I make the menu.

The model we have allows our customers the flexibility of choosing what they receive and customizing their boxes to get what they like as well as skipping deliveries if they need to. This way customers may sub out items that are from farther away, say Mexico, for more local California items. In a perfect world I would be able to provide my customers with nothing but local California produce grown right here in our backyards but that isn’t realistic or economical; maybe someday.

But my customers want those items and I am obliged to obtain them in order to provide great service and meet their needs. In the winter in California prices on produce skyrocket due to cold weather and other variables that are encountered by our farmers. Mexico with its much warmer climate can grow most of the items year round that CA, and the rest of the U.S., can only grow for a season or two. Because of this warmer more farm-friendly weather Mexican produce is usually my less expensive and a better value for my customers. Especially when I have a budget for each box. All things being equal, if the same item is available in CA and in MX, and the prices are comparable then I always choose CA, every time!

I am a red blooded proud American and I buy American and support American farmers as much as humanly possible. I served in the Coast Guard for 10 years before I started this business and going to school! The reality of the situation though is that right now the weather in CA is cold and the produce has been poor quality and expensive. In order to offer the best variety and value I sometimes obtain the products my customers request from outside our region. Those items are always on our farm page and if they are from another country then I include the country code as well, which you will undoubtedly notice from now on! You will notice it on the display names of the items when you log into your account and see your box contents.

I will be the first to say that my service is not for everyone, but it is great for most people. I do not try to hide anything and am always up front and honest with my customers. This business is not all about making money but making a difference in the world and if my difference sometime includes organic produce from Mexico instead of GMO produce from the U.S. then so be it. There are many people out there who do not make a lot of money and what little money they do make they try to invest in themselves and their families by eating my healthy organic food. I feel I have a moral obligation to give them the highest quality produce at the best value and I think I do a pretty good job balancing all of these different variables.

I could honestly keep going about this and if you would like to talk on the phone or meet for a lunch to talk about this I would be happy to do that. I think I am just rambling now though and I think you should get the gist of what my reasoning is for everything.

Thanks again for your question and your business. I appreciate each and every single one of my customers and believe that by buying organic you are voting with your dollars which is what is needed to steer our future towards a better path. If you decide to switch to another CSA or farmers market then that is still great because in the end you are still making a difference in the right direction.

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As much as turkeys are a Thanksgiving tradition, so too are refrigerators packed tight with holiday leftovers.  After three days of grazing on cold turkey, stuffing and sweet potatoes, though, the prospect of eating yet another plate of Thanksgiving just doesn’t seem to have the same appeal as it did just a few days before.

At my house, that turn of mood means it’s time to stop picking at the bird and instead make Thanksgiving Soup.  I know lots of people have a tradition of making soup from their Thanksgiving turkeys, but I’m willing to be you’ve never done it like this.

You see, there is no recipe, no spicing, no chopping, no measuring. This is the most serendipitous soup I know, and for all its lack of culinary exactness, it is always quite tasty and deeply satisfying.

The first step is pretty standard: making stock from the turkey. Pull all the meat you can off your bird and set it aside, and then put the carcass in a pot of water and simmer the heck out it.  After you remove the bones and whatever fat has floated to the surface, go ahead and add all of your Thanksgiving leftovers to the pot.  Yes, that’s right: all of them!

Put in all the leftover turkey, the leftover stuffing, the leftover mashed potatoes.  The candied yams? You bet! Green bean casserole? Brussels sprouts?  Peas and carrots? Yes, yes and yes.  Gravy? All of it! Cranberries? Absolutely!  Don’t forget to throw in a piece of that nut bread or pumpkin pie, crust and all.

Really?

Yes, really. Whatever dishes complimented each other at your Thanksgiving table will compliment each other all over again in this wonderful soup. The flavor is like an entire Thanksgiving meal in every bite.

The seasonings in the separate dishes will be all the spice you need, aside from salt (though you could always add some garlic, thyme or nutmeg if you find it lacking). The stuffing and potatoes should bulk up the pot, but if you need a little extra substance, just add some carrots, barley, beans, mushrooms or even some diced bread. A little cornstarch rue will thicken the broth if need be.

I suppose I first got the idea for Thanksgiving Soup by remembering the meals made by an old boyfriend of mine, some 25 years ago. Scott and his best friend Mark were living on their own for the first time, and being young guys, neither was much of a cook.

They primarily subsisted on a concoction they proudly called “Stuff,” which was basically a big pot of cooked pasta, plus whatever canned and jarred items they happened to have in the cupboard.

Everything you can think of went into a pot of Stuff — cans of chili, Spaghetti-Os, soups, refried beans, random sauces and salsas, frozen vegetables, Tater Tots, lunch meat, hot dogs, whatever.  Somehow it always tasted great (at least to us hungry college students) and it was definitely never the same Stuff twice.

Since folks’ recipes for Thanksgiving dishes are so different, every pot of Thanksgiving Soup will be different, too. No matter how it comes out, though, one thing you can be sure of is that Thanksgiving Soup is good Stuff — the holiday meal that keeps on giving.

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Of all the holidays, Thanksgiving can be particularly awkward for vegetarians, seeing as the whole production traditionally revolves around the preparation, presentation and praising of perfectly plated poultry.

Passing up the turkey – so lovingly basted by one beloved relative or other– is akin to betrayal in some families. But even in one’s own kitchen, forgoing a bird can mean grasping for a main dish that “tastes like Thanksgiving.”

This of course is the very dilemma that spawned so many unfortunate Tofurkey recipes over the years.  Because when it comes down to it, sides are still sides. Turkey or no, there needs to be a centerpiece worth celebrating and being thankful for.

When I was a kid, my grandparents were strict vegetarians. Actually, it’s a lot more accurate to say that my grandfather was a strict vegetarian and he forbade my grandmother to eat meat. Which she did not; at least in his presence.

Alas, my gram was a somewhat reluctant veggie and was rather prone to sneaking a nibble of ham or a tuna sandwich on the sly when she had the opportunity.  One of her biggest frustrations, though, was with Thanksgiving, which simply did not taste like Thanksgiving to her without a big, juicy stuffed turkey.

My grandfather would not hear of it, though (he stopped eating meat entirely in 1943), so my gram devised a recipe that would deliver the flavor she craved without delivering the actual bird. Through trial and error she adapted her own mother’s stuffing recipe to become a casserole – and our family’s signature Thanksgiving dish.

Now that my grandparents are gone and the Thanksgiving meal has shifted to my brother-in-law’s clan, I don’t get to taste that old family favorite very often, but it is something I absolutely crave.  I get to make a meal at home this year, so I went looking for the ingredient list in my recipe box today.

And there, on four yellowing index cards stapled together at the top left corner, is my grandma’s familiar handwriting:

 

Gram’s Dressing Casserole

Wash all vegetables before chopping

1 Loaf Bread – whole grain

1 cup Water (approx)

2 or 3 Large Onions, chopped

2 or 3 cups Celery, chopped

1 Bunch Parsley, chopped and stems removed (2 or 3 cups)

1 tsp Pepper

2 or 3 Tbsp Poultry Seasoning

No salt. Broth is salty.

½ lb Butter (more if needed)

4 Tbsp Braggs Liquid Aminos

1 cup Hot Water

 

Put bread in large bowl and pour water over it. Squeeze and crumble bread.  Add next five ingredients. Fry (one-half at a time) in butter in large skillet until vegetables are almost soft and bread is slightly browned. Stir frequently so mixture doesn’t burn. Add more butter if necessary. Put mixture in large casserole – cover and store in refrigerator overnight or until ready to use. Make a broth with the Amino and hot water and pour over mixture and bake in moderate oven until bubbling hot. Serve with cranberry sauce. May be made the day before serving but do not add broth and bake until just before serving. No salt needed. The Amino is salty. Variations – add mushrooms, nuts or raisins.

 

My family never really made the variations, as far as I can remember, but I have added mushrooms to the recipe in the past and it is terrific.  My grandma’s advice to fry the mixture “one-half at a time” is pretty wildly off, though. I simultaneously use one big cast iron skillet and a wok and still end up doing multiple batches (don’t worry, it shrinks down!) Also, I recommend going with the lower end of the scale for poultry seasoning, especially the first time you make it — the flavor can dominate if you use too much.  You can find the Bragg’s Liquid Aminos at any health food store or Whole Foods market. Don’t skip it; it is essential to the recipe.

 

This special Thanksgiving casserole is truly a wonderful family tradition that can be the centerpiece of any meal, vegetarian or not.  May you and yours find much to be thankful for.

Posted by & filed under Food Philosophy, tips & tricks.

pumpkin1 soup pot

I used to feel really guilty every year after Halloween, as I watched my poor pumpkin’s happily carved face droop and sag, eventually becoming mushy and maybe even fuzzy before I carried it the long, green mile to the compost bin.

It made me think about all of the millions (and millions!) of pumpkins on front porches all over the country, silently executing the same eerie slow dance of decomposition (like something out of Mary Roach’s Stiff  — bwa ha ha!), and it made me feel dreadfully wasteful.

So, about five years ago, I started a new tradition around my house. It starts out the night before Halloween with the traditional carving of one very sincere pumpkin. (No matter how much I intend for it be different each year, I’ve carved basically the same face on my pumpkins since I was a little kid – a happy face with an ear-to-ear grin and eyes squinting as if in laughter.)

My pumpkin cheerfully performs his duty as illuminated guardian of candy distribution on Halloween night, and then he goes straight into the fridge.  The next evening, I make my Smiling Pumpkin Bisque Soup.

This soup is a bit of a production, what with peeling and weighing the pumpkin and having to run hot liquid through the blender, but the result is well worth it.  Curry in a squash recipe is fairly typical, but the unlikely pairing with Italian seasoning is the surprise winner here, and the texture of the smooth and creamy bisque is simply exquisite.  It is all the more special for being a once-a-year endeavor.

You can make this soup vegetarian by substituting vegetable stock for the chicken stock, and make it vegan by using a soy or nut product instead of the dairy and oil instead of butter. The flavor and texture will be a little different, but I’m betting it will still be fantastic.

Here is how to have your Halloween pumpkin and eat it, too:

 

Smiling Pumpkin Bisque Soup

12 cups chicken broth

2 T butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 lbs flesh from a happy Halloween pumpkin, peeled, seeded and chopped (no candle wax!)

1 T flour and 1 T curry powder, mixed and set aside

1 cup hot milk

3 T heavy cream

2 T Italian seasoning blend (McCormick’s)

Dash of nutmeg

Dash of pepper

 

Put butter in a big soup pot. Add onion and pumpkin and cook on low-medium heat for 5 minutes. Sprinkle flour/curry mixture over pumpkin and cook for another 2 minutes while stirring. Add chicken stock and simmer until the pumpkin is tender (± 30 minutes) Heat milk separately and add to pumpkin/broth. Being careful not to overfill the blender with hot liquid, blend well in several batches and pour into a second, clean pot. The texture should be totally smooth, no lumps. After blending, simmer for another 5 minutes. Stir in heavy cream and add Italian seasoning and a pinch of nutmeg and pepper. Add a little swirl of cream on top of each bowl and serve.

 

According to Ayurvedic tradition, if food is full of Prana and is prepared with love and care, it nourishes the mind and spirit as well as the body. “Prana” is the Sanskrit word for energy, or life force, and I think it is fair to say that carving a face onto a pumpkin is a deliberate act of personifying the life force of the squash — so no sad or scary faces in the soup!

As they say, you are what you eat.

bowl

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One of the great things about writing this blog for Golden Gate Organics is that it is an excellent excuse to learn more about food-related issues, so when I saw an announcement for a lecture titled “Food to Feed the World,” I thought it might be interesting and I signed up to attend.

Sponsored by the Commonwealth Club’s INFORUM division, the presentation was moderated by Earth Island Journal editor Jason Mark. The panelists were Nick Saul, author of The Stop and CEO of Community Food Centres Canada, an innovative community food development program; Raj Patel, author of Stuffed and Starved, a book that digs into the economics and politics of the global industrial food system; and Nikki Henderson, executive director of West Oakland’s People’s Grocery, a nonprofit fighting food insecurity through the Grub Box CSA, leadership development, a community garden, greenhouse and cooking classes.

With the panelists coming from such different vantage points, the discussion was pretty wide ranging, but the focus repeatedly circled back to a fundamental issue of food justice that all of the panelists could directly speak to: poor diet, and the health problems caused by poor diet, are a direct function of economic disparity.

One of the most telling quotes to come from the evening was from Saul:  “If you are rich, you get organic and local; if you’re poor, you get diabetes.” Indeed, the statistics are jarring — $225 billion (that’s billion with a B) is spent on diabetes care in the U.S. alone, and the poor get diabetes twice as often as more well-off people do.

In many places – such as the liquor-store-dominated food deserts of the Oakland flatlands — limited access to fresh produce is a big factor, but it is also a question of price per calorie. Simply put, not only are fresh, healthy foods less available to the poor, but they are more expensive than high-calorie processed foods that are full of salt, sugar and fat – the very foods that have fueled the nation’s obesity and diabetes epidemic.

It is with no small irony, then, that what moderator Mark called the “food banking industry” has been complicit in the problem for decades by handing out heavily processed and packaged foods to those who are most susceptible to consuming them in the first place.  It was heartening to hear that food banks nationwide are beginning to turn away donations of unhealthy foods in order to introduce fresh fruits and vegetables to their recipients and teach them how to prepare them.

I was thinking about all of this as I left the Commonwealth Club’s office at Market and Montgomery and made my way toward BART. While I waited for the light to change, I saw a homeless guy stretch shoulder deep into a garbage can as he fished around the bottom for bottles. He pulled a couple out and opened them and consumed the remaining contents before putting the empties into a cardboard box, which he then started pushing down the sidewalk with his foot.

Now there’s a guy who could really use a couple bucks, I thought to myself. I pulled two ones from my pocket and crossed the street and approached him.

“Hey, man,” I said, “if I gave you $2, what would you do with it?” I was expecting him to say, “get some food” or maybe go for blunt honesty with, “buy a beer,” but what he said instead stopped me cold.  “I’d get a soda,” he said with zero hesitation as he took the money from me.

The guy was way too skinny to be healthy, and the thought of him chugging a corn-syrup Coke instead of getting the nourishment he obviously needed hit me like a brick.  I tweaked his biceps and told him he needed some meat on his bones and suggested some food instead. “OK, a soda and a burger” he said, looking up at a McDonalds storefront, which was now just steps away. “You need food,” I said, “foooood…!” I sang at him as I disappeared down into the BART tunnel.

Sitting and waiting for my train, I fumed.  Well-meaning, educated and affluent progressives can subscribe to organic food boxes, attend lectures and talk about food justice until they are blue in the face, but it means absolutely nothing to this homeless guy on Market Street, scrounging in garbage cans to feed his soda jones and turning to Mickey D’s for what passes as nourishment.

The work the food forum panelists (and others) are doing is vitally important and transformative wherever it touches individual lives, but as Henderson from People’s Grocery acknowledged, “there’s only so much we can do in these little pockets of proactivity in a reactive system.”

And there it is again. That word: system.  No, this is not an individual problem. It is a systemic problem. And systemic problems demand systemic solutions.

So here is the question: How do we change a system that teaches people to prefer unhealthy foods that are cheap, ubiquitous and deeply entrenched in American culture?  How do we create widespread, systemic change that alters one of the most basic relationships that humans have – their relationship with their food?

How do you get a homeless guy to crave an apple instead of a soda, or to want a fresh salad or sandwich instead of a cheap, greasy burger?

How?

Posted by & filed under Food Philosophy, fruit.

asian applesauce making

“Why did you plant two?” I asked my neighbor when I came over to help pick “pear apples” from one of her two huge and overburdened Asian pear trees, which stand just six feet apart in her sunny back yard.

“Because I wanted to put up a hammock between them,” she said, “but they got so big I couldn’t do it.”

She was definitely right. The trees were stout, branches intertwining; heavily bowed, they were laden with huge, ripe fruit hanging in heavy clumps. One tree had already been mostly picked clean, but the other held hundreds more, many the size of softballs and with the blush of a sun-kissed cheek on their golden skins.

My friend Pam kicked off her flip-flops and shimmied up inside the tree, tossing fruit down to me while her ever-curious wirehair dachshund bobbed and weaved the cannonballs that rained down every time Pam reached for a new branch.  To get to what she couldn’t reach, we used an old wooden ladder and a grabber (like the kind folks with arthritis use) as we tempted gravity’s mood for some especially gorgeous prizes high up.

We ate fruit as we picked, dripping juice everywhere and raving about how fantastic they were. Sweet, crisp and incredibly juicy, they were the best I’ve ever had.   My neighbor’s fondness for calling them “pear-apples” is actually a misnomer, though, because the fruit is not actually a hybrid of pears and apples. It is a pear species in its own right — actually the world’s oldest known cultivated pear — Pyres pyrifolia, native to China, Japan and Korea.

Pam and I managed to fill eight paper grocery bags with good, solid fruit, plus two more bags of bruised fruit for her chickens and two big tubs of too-far-gone specimens for the green bin.  When we were done, we shook our heads in disbelief as we saw that half the fruit was still on the tree.

Back home, I lugged out the bathroom scale and stood on it with bags in each hand. The total for my six bags: 95 lbs of fruit.  “Good Lord,” I said aloud, “What am I going to do with 95 lbs of Asian pears?”

You aren’t likely to find Asian pear pies or jams because the fruit has such a high water content and a somewhat grainy texture. They also bruise very easily and spoil quickly, especially when they are heaped in a bag, so I knew there was just one answer: make applesauce (umm, pearsauce).

And thus began a two-day marathon of peeling, coring, chopping, simmering, mashing, jar sterilizing and hot bath canning.  I made three gallons of Asian pear sauce so perfect and sweet that it needed no sugar, no spice, no nothing. It will make wonderful holiday gifts for neighbors who didn’t get in on the picking.

Even after all the canning, though, I still had two bags of fruit left. At that point, I started pawning them off on anyone who would take them – including the Golden Gate Organics driver who showed up at my house last Tuesday! After setting aside half a dozen to eat myself, I took the last of them to Oakland’s Chabot stables for the horses, who seemed to enjoy them as much as we humans do.

Having fruit trees is a blessing, and witnessing a bumper crop like this one seems nothing short of miraculous. But it can definitely be a challenge to not let the harvest go to waste. Besides inviting folks to come pick every year, my neighbor takes fruit down to a local food bank.  The website www.AmpleHarvest.org is an easy way to find a food pantry near you that accepts homegrown produce.

If you live in the East Bay and need help harvesting fruit from your own trees, you can contact People United for a Better Life in Oakland (PUEBLO) at (510) 535-2525 or pueblo@peopleunited.org. PUEBLO staff and volunteers will harvest your trees and donate the fruit to low-income seniors in Oakland.

Because more than anything, a good harvest is a gift that is meant to be shared.

 

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